Problem Child

[Retreever]

A friend of mine, older gentleman, has a stainless steel Uberti 1858 New Model Army .44 percussion revolver (see pictures attached), has the usual proof marks and date code indicates 1985 manufacture date. It has a non-standard front and rear sight set up and the top of the barrel is stamped with the following 'CLUB FRANCE ARMES'.

At one time it was modified to shoot a Kirst Konversion Cylinder.

He has been having a recurring issue lately where the gun will hold half cock, index , lock up just fine but when he fires the gun after 1 or 2 shots it will no longer index , the cylinder seems to 'jam'. You can free it up manually but it seizes after every shot. There is no forward/backward play with the cylinder un-cocked but when you cock the gun there is a minuscule amount of play.  One other thing is there is almost no gap between cylinder face and the forcing cone.

Is it possible the cylinder face is 'jamming' against the forcing cone when it is being fired? I'd be interested in everyone's feedback as to possible issues and fixes to try.

Thanks
Retreever

[Grumpy gumpy]

Has the gun been striped down and properly cleaned, I had jamming issues with one of mine and it was a small piece of percussion cap inside jamming the bolt, just a thought
Gumpy

[Retreever]

Has the gun been striped down and properly cleaned, I had jamming issues with one of mine and it was a small piece of percussion cap inside jamming the bolt, just a thought
Gumpy

Yes it has been stripped down and thoroughly cleaned several times since the problem started. Even replaced some of the internal parts but did not fix the problem.

Thanks
Retreever

[Retreever]

OK, so I believe I have located the source of the problem, I have since bought this gun from my friend as a parts guns but in stripping it down once again and going over the internals it looks to me as if the 'cam' at the bottom of the hammer is very worn. I have a spare Uberti hammer but the bottom is larger than the bottom of the hammer in the gun and it won't push down through the opening in order to re-assemble. See picture attached.

My question is from the picture can you tell if it would be possible to modify the replacement hammer with a little judicious filing?

Thanks, Retreever

[Len]

Just thinking out loud here.
The cam is a rod driven into a tight hole.
It can be knocked out and replaced.
The end of a spiral drill bit would do for a replacement.
Then filing on the new cam, still using the original hammer.

[Retreever]

Just thinking out loud here.
The cam is a rod driven into a tight hole.
It can be knocked out and replaced.
The end of a spiral drill bit would do for a replacement.
Then filing on the new cam, still using the original hammer.

Sounds like a good thought. I will give that a try.

Retreever