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Author Topic: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army  (Read 412 times)

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Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #15 on: March 20, 2020, 08:23:27 PM »
I've been able to drill through every hammer I've tried except a S.S. Ruger.

RC, yes the dog.  For your second question, no not the area between the two notches. I'm talking about the top surface  that creates the lip for the half cock notch. Here's why. If you lower the full cock notch to reduce the area the sear has to travel before it "breaks" (let's go), the sear is lower now and the front of the lip (of the half cock notch) could run into the tip of the sear. This is one of the ways sears get broken (broken).

  As for the set screw method, the screw isn't directly under the notch shelf, it locates further down. The back of the sear rests against it. It does the opposite of reducing the height of the notch itself. You can adjust the amount of engagement the sear has with the notch.

Nomenclature - I've heard folks call it a "dog". The Colt factory calls it a notch. I'll stick with notch. Actually, a dog is a movable stop that acts as a temporary brake such as on a winch. But, as long as everyone is on the same page, it's no big deal to me.  Bill Ruger screwed that all up when he called a hand and a bolt a pawl and a cylinder latch!! Lol
If you think about it, the correct name for the " trigger " could/should be the "dog".

Mike
Mike so you are talking about thinning the finger of the half cock notch ?

(I wish I could figure out how to add a pointer to the picture of the hammer I posted to point where I am talking about)!

If that is where you are talking about are you talking about just thinning the finger ,and if so how much ?
the same as the amount removed from the dog ?

What do you think about adding a shim like Mazo suggested ?

Offline 45 Dragoon

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #16 on: March 21, 2020, 03:19:31 AM »
RC, I'm going to say yes hoping we're talking about the same thing.

  The main thing I'm trying to point out is - you don't want the sear to be hit by the lip/finger  of the half cock notch as it rotates. Since you don't have to pull the trigger as far now (if you reduce the height of the full cock notch) it may be in the way as the lip/finger goes by. To achieve that, you would reduce enough material so that that wouldn't happen.

 As far as Mazo's solution, if you like and understand that, I think it's fine. If you do that,  you won't need to worry about  .  . ugh .  .  .  what I just tried to clear up from my previous post  .  .  .   about the lip/finger  thingy .  .   .

Mike /Goon
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #17 on: March 21, 2020, 03:32:28 PM »
RC, I'm going to say yes hoping we're talking about the same thing.

  The main thing I'm trying to point out is - you don't want the sear to be hit by the lip/finger  of the half cock notch as it rotates. Since you don't have to pull the trigger as far now (if you reduce the height of the full cock notch) it may be in the way as the lip/finger goes by. To achieve that, you would reduce enough material so that that wouldn't happen.

 As far as Mazo's solution, if you like and understand that, I think it's fine. If you do that,  you won't need to worry about  .  . ugh .  .  .  what I just tried to clear up from my previous post  .  .  .   about the lip/finger  thingy .  .   .

Mike /Goon
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
Is this the area you are Talking about Mike ?


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« Last Edit: March 21, 2020, 04:57:14 PM by Rebel Craig »

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #18 on: March 21, 2020, 05:22:24 PM »
You could also soft solder (or epoxy) a thin piece of brass or steel to the hammer to take up space, reducing amount of travel of the sear. Adjust to your liking by filing.

Did you use the brass or the steel,soft solder or epoxy ?

Offline 45 Dragoon

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #19 on: March 21, 2020, 08:13:47 PM »
RC!!! By God I think we are getting close!!!

In the top picture, you covered the "lip" in red and then about 9/10ths above it. In the lower pic, you didn't get any red on it at all .  .  .   THAT PART!! Lol!!! The lip is the "overhang" that keeps you from pulling the trigger and dropping the hammer.
   Now, just think about what happens when you pull the trigger when it's in full cock. The sear clears the notch, the hammer starts rotating, the half cock notch passes by the sear, hammer comes to rest, finger lifts and the sear comes to rest on the hammer.

 If you remove say half the height of the full cock notch to remove creep, then the sear will be only half the height it was when you had ALL of the full cock notch. That being the case, when the half cock notch passes by this time, there is a good chance the end of the "lip" of the half cock notch may "pile drive" the end of the sear and break it.
  Therefore, you need to taper that edge so that possibility doesn't happen.  That's what could happen if you do the "reduction route".

  The set screw " adjustable " method just gives the sear a rest that allows you to decide how much "purchase" of the notch the sear has.  Nothing else needs to be done.

  The "add a shim" method accomplishes the same thing as the set screw method. I'd go with that one if I were you. Thanks Mazo!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
« Last Edit: March 21, 2020, 08:21:17 PM by 45 Dragoon »

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #20 on: March 22, 2020, 12:20:33 AM »
RC!!! By God I think we are getting close!!!

In the top picture, you covered the "lip" in red and then about 9/10ths above it. In the lower pic, you didn't get any red on it at all .  .  .   THAT PART!! Lol!!! The lip is the "overhang" that keeps you from pulling the trigger and dropping the hammer.
   Now, just think about what happens when you pull the trigger when it's in full cock. The sear clears the notch, the hammer starts rotating, the half cock notch passes by the sear, hammer comes to rest, finger lifts and the sear comes to rest on the hammer.

 If you remove say half the height of the full cock notch to remove creep, then the sear will be only half the height it was when you had ALL of the full cock notch. That being the case, when the half cock notch passes by this time, there is a good chance the end of the "lip" of the half cock notch may "pile drive" the end of the sear and break it.
  Therefore, you need to taper that edge so that possibility doesn't happen.  That's what could happen if you do the "reduction route".

  The set screw " adjustable " method just gives the sear a rest that allows you to decide how much "purchase" of the notch the sear has.  Nothing else needs to be done.

  The "add a shim" method accomplishes the same thing as the set screw method. I'd go with that one if I were you. Thanks Mazo!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Mike would I glue or solder the shim in the full cock notch or below it ?

Offline 45 Dragoon

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #21 on: March 22, 2020, 10:26:47 AM »
RC,

  If it's a "fun gun", scratch up the area (right below the notch) and use some JB Weld. If it may be needed for more serious stuff, solder in the same place (only low temp solder).

Mike

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2020, 08:53:23 PM »
RC,

  If it's a "fun gun", scratch up the area (right below the notch) and use some JB Weld. If it may be needed for more serious stuff, solder in the same place (only low temp solder).

Mike
Mike I figure any gun I have may be needed for something serious so I will get some low temp solder.
I think I am going to use a Piece of feeler gauge.
Not sure which thickness to start out with ,Maybe 30 to 40 Percent of the original depth of the Notch ??
Whatcha think ?

Offline 45 Dragoon

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2020, 09:48:05 PM »
Well, it won't be a "high wear" part so I'd use a piece of mild steel so I could "file to fit".

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2020, 11:19:24 PM »
Well, it won't be a "high wear" part so I'd use a piece of mild steel so I could "file to fit".

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Makes sense,Looks like this will come together !

Offline 45 Dragoon

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #25 on: March 23, 2020, 05:25:42 AM »
Good luck!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #26 on: March 29, 2020, 06:31:10 PM »
Good luck!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Mike
I picked up some Bernzomatic Metal Work Solder from a Lowes store.
It says it is silver Bearing acid core solder with a 430 Faranheith melt temperature.https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bernzomatic-sac300-3-oz-metal-work-solder/1000153990



Also picked up this flux
 https://www.lowes.com/pd/RectorSeal-1-7-fl-oz-Nokorode-Soldering-Flux/1000092789

I have never soldered before
Is this what I need to do the Job ?
I have a bernzomatic torch like you get at Walmart and a wood burning pen that burns at 1050 Faranheight

Which one would be best to use ?

By the way I found one of the little thingys that you can nail into the wall and hang a picture with and bent it till it matches the contour below the hammer and also thinned it with a Dremel too to match the width .
and it is steel as a magnet sticks to it.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2020, 06:39:19 PM by Rebel Craig »

Offline Rebel Craig

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Re: Reducing trigger creep on Remington New Army
« Reply #27 on: April 01, 2020, 02:45:34 AM »
I picked up some Bernzomatic Metal Work Solder from a Lowes store.
It says it is silver Bearing acid core solder with a 430 Faranheith melt temperature.https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bernzomatic-sac300-3-oz-metal-work-solder/1000153990



Also picked up this flux
 https://www.lowes.com/pd/RectorSeal-1-7-fl-oz-Nokorode-Soldering-Flux/1000092789

I have never soldered before
Is this what I need to do the Job ?
I have a bernzomatic torch like you get at Walmart and a wood burning pen that burns at 1050 Faranheight

Which one would be best to use ?

By the way I found one of the little thingys that you can nail into the wall and hang a picture with and bent it till it matches the contour below the hammer and also thinned it with a Dremel too to match the width .
and it is steel as a magnet sticks to it.

I do not want to use the incorrect solder ,I also do not want to damage the hammer by using to hot of a temperature.

The melting temperature of the solder I got is 430 degrees,so If I have to heat the hammer to 430 degrees is that going to be too high and hurt the hammer ?
If so what solder would be the best and what temperature does it melt at.
I do not want to experiment with this ,I want to know what I need and how to do it before proceeding.

Thanks