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Author Topic: A Sharps  (Read 9737 times)

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Offline Hawg

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #15 on: October 13, 2018, 10:22:04 PM »

The chamber seal does require a tool to adjust. I was referring to the conant seal. I was wondering how hard it was to remove on an original that probably hasn't been removed in 100 years or so. I didn't think I was ever going to get the one on my repro off.
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Offline Racing

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2018, 04:16:23 AM »
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Offline Racing

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2018, 04:57:42 PM »
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Offline prof marvel

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #18 on: October 14, 2018, 05:14:55 PM »
\
My Dear Racing -

I have found that the machined "solid brass" cartridges work sorta... but they do eat up a lot of powder space.

I have fabricated but have not yet shot cases made of plastic 28 ga shells and brass 28 ga shells.
I haven't had the time to get out with those things yet, since moving ... omg ten years ago? -  life kinda gets in the way of fun sometimes.

I just recently came across the box, so i'll post photos of them shortly.

yhs
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Offline Hawg

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #19 on: October 14, 2018, 10:38:04 PM »
What the good professor said. The brass cartridges do work but they cut the powder charge down to 50 grains or so. My repro shot like crap with 50 grains. 80 was good, ninety wasn't good at all but 100 was best of all. It just had so much flash from the breech block I didn't like it so I stuck with 80 which was the factory recommended charge.
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy, and tasteth good with ketchup.

Offline Racing

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #20 on: October 15, 2018, 04:24:35 AM »
Uhu.
Thx for the intel both of you.

Yes. I presume the answer to this would be a shell/cartridge of some sorts and indeed it now seems that 28gauge such will be the ticket then.

Increasing capacity is a rather simple matter of reaming out chamber length and could be done at home seeing the advent of the modern reamer.
A regular battery powered drill,ample amounts of oil and easy does it will take care of that in no time. Seeing that a 28gauge shell will fit we can basically also make good use of its surely greater length.

To secure ignition on an 1859/-63 version,and thus be more confident in that the primer flame will protrude and run the distance,we just open the firing hole of the primer nipple up to approx the same diameter as its entry hole/anvil for the primer. Reduced diameter flame holes of a nipple will surely help reduce back pressure in our dear revolvers while it will hinder primer performance in the greater distance needed/traveled in a Sharps.
Seeing the "other" leaks within the Sharps design back pressure i bet is the least of our problems.
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Offline Hawg

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #21 on: October 15, 2018, 10:37:05 AM »
If you use the 28 gauge shell as is you will have to recess the breech for the rim but you probably already knew that.  I know my repro wasn't the same as a real Sharps but I never had an ignition problem with real bp. Ignition was instant with Swiss. Pyrodex was like a poorly timed flintlock. Pop..bang but they all did go off.
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy, and tasteth good with ketchup.

Offline Racing

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #22 on: October 15, 2018, 05:13:44 PM »
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Offline Hawg

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #23 on: October 15, 2018, 11:26:07 PM »
IMO it would have to be brass for the longevity of cases even tho crimping them will shorten the life of them. I reload plastic shotgun shells with bp but all I get is a couple of reloads before they're junk.
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy, and tasteth good with ketchup.

Offline Racing

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #24 on: October 16, 2018, 02:46:15 AM »
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Offline Len

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #25 on: October 16, 2018, 08:19:09 AM »
I turned a couple of carts out of Deldrin three yrs ago. It was a failure. They crack. Need something more tensile. Have been thinking of casting 2-component silicone, the dental stuff. Will see.

Offline prof marvel

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #26 on: October 16, 2018, 12:53:13 PM »
The plastic 28 ga cases are nearly ideal for fit, both fitting the chamber, and holding the bullet somewhat firmly.

The brass 28 ga cases are extremely thin for use as a "rifle cartridge", and might actually need some sort of internal reinforcement sleeves.

I did try fabricating a case out of copper plumbing pipe using both self-made bases and a brass base from the plastic 28 ga case.

If one removes the movable breechplate it opens up space to add a ~ 1/8 " plate that can be milled for a rim and also act as an extractor.
My theoiry was that If one can achieve a breach seal with the cartridge, then the moveable breechplate is not as critical.
 
as mentioned, I have not tried shooting any yet.

yhs
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Offline G Dog

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #27 on: October 16, 2018, 01:29:12 PM »
"For we wrestle not against flesh and blood, but against principalities, against powers, against the rulers of the darkness of this world, against spiritual wickedness in high places".  
                                        Ephesians 6:12  (KJV)

Offline prof marvel

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #28 on: October 16, 2018, 03:09:47 PM »
Ola Gdog -

I think that rubber or stiff hi-temp silicone ought to work...

here are some photos of my crap attempts

sharps-cart1 shows (lewft to right)
- 28ga plastic shell cut down to fit with .54 T/C Maxi
- copper plumbing nipple and cap parts
- cartridge made of copper pipe and cap with ringtail bullet loosely in place
- cartridge made of 28ga base and soldered copper pipe with Lee .54 improved HB minie
- commercial round-base machined brass cartridge with  ringtail bullet loosely in place
- commercial square-base machined brass cartridge with  ringtail bullet loosely in place
- 28ga plastic pulled from brass base


sharps-cart2 shows
- cut down 28ga plastic shell
- full size 28ga brass shell
- 50-70 govt brass
- .500 S&W brass
- 2 commercial machined brass cartridge s
- 2 ringtail bullets and a Lee Improve .54 HB Minie that was pushed thru the sharps .54 barrel


sharps-cart3 shows
- ribbed power piston high base plastic 28ga
- smooth AA skeet plastic 28ga
- same as above cut down
- AA plastic 28ga with T/C .54 Maxi - a nice tight fit
- the same 2 copper plumbing bits

I have shot the turned brass cases, and they work, are "middlin" accurate, best with the rightail christams tree bullets,
but you have to pound the bullets into the case :-(

"someday  i'll get around to finishing this experiment with the plastic or copper cases, but until then
it shoots pretty darn well with paper cartridges using HB minies (middlin acurate - ~ 6 in groups at 50 yds)
and the paper cartridges with the rigtails ( "good" accuracy at 100 yds ~ coffee can at 150 yds )

If I can't get  better accuracy out of the  .54 paper cutter, I plan to rebarrel to either a .50 papercutter or .45 papercutter.

but current proct is now a cast sharps reciever, 45-90 barrel (marked 45-70 - typical italian deep chamber) and all the finished guts & lock & wood & etc to mill/assemble . it has been a "go broke slowly" project, but I am still in cheaper than buying a completed rifle.

yhs
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Offline Racing

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Re: A Sharps
« Reply #29 on: October 17, 2018, 06:06:54 AM »
The plastic 28 ga cases are nearly ideal for fit, both fitting the chamber, and holding the bullet somewhat firmly.

The brass 28 ga cases are extremely thin for use as a "rifle cartridge", and might actually need some sort of internal reinforcement sleeves.

I did try fabricating a case out of copper plumbing pipe using both self-made bases and a brass base from the plastic 28 ga case.

If one removes the movable breechplate it opens up space to add a ~ 1/8 " plate that can be milled for a rim and also act as an extractor.
My theoiry was that If one can achieve a breach seal with the cartridge, then the moveable breechplate is not as critical.
 
as mentioned, I have not tried shooting any yet.

yhs
prof marvel

Prof.
Clear this up for me will you. The breech moves up and down,how would omitting the Conant seal aid cartridge volume?
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