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Starr SA & DA / Re: Starr SA No 42353
« Last post by Hawg on Today at 09:41:34 PM »
Looking good but I expected no less.
Breechloaders / Re: Chassepot Mle 1866
« Last post by Racing on Today at 08:39:58 PM »
Once in a blue moon guys, why i want to share this with you.

Cause yet another Chassepot landed in my lap, however a rather rare one.

While the Chassepot was produced, to the letter, by the millions there WERE those that were not and this is one of those. The cavalry carbine.
Or.. carbine. I don´t know. Better maybe to call it a short rifle?

No matter this is one boomstick that was never let go why it´s in REALLY nice condition to this day. The cavalry carbine had all its furniture out of brass, sported a somewhat shorter barrel (25" vs the rifles 28") and in turn lacked the bracketry for a bayonet.

I don´t know the numbers for the cavalry gun but..for the later Gras there were over 3 million produced and a few hundred thou were carbines per the one shown here.
Mind you, the cavalry gun in Chassepot guise was a rather late spawn vs the Gras and what´s more many were converted to Gras so... i suspect at least semi few Chassepot ones are still around.

Well.. almost untouched. I handed it a fresh crown. 150yrs is 150yrs after all.

A beautiful gun it is though. Another such cavalry specific is the turned down bolt handle. This to make sure the handle didn´t hit the horse boys in their backs..

Yep. Rifling in just as nice condition and indeed a "fast" twist to it too. It´s been said they sport a 1:22 but to be honest i´ve for various reason never checked. Need to do that.
45cal. Of course. When slugged they usually come in around the 458-460 mark.

Again. No. Rifle hasn´t been restoed or similar, just cleaned out.

Indeed just as fresh looking. The obturator (rubber disc) is since long gone way passed though as you can imagine. Fabbing a fresh one is a small order the day i feel the gun needs to be shot again so no worries.

Yes. Buttplate out of brass too. Why the cavalry guns got this, no idea. SOME of the similar gendarme guns were according to legend so equipped as well. Dunno as to the truth of that however.

Here next to my "sleeper" infantry Chasse. To highlight some of the differences. The sleeper made in London by Potts in 1869 and the cavalry gun by Chatteleraullt in 1870.

Disregard the muzzle brake and you get a good idea of difference in length.
Starr SA & DA / Re: Starr SA No 42353
« Last post by Racing on Today at 08:21:21 PM »

This thing showed up, late for the party.. Indeed the top strap was skewed and needed attention, as did other pts of the gun as well. Exterior though in way better shape than expected, as is the rifling.

From the barrel rearwards towards the hammer.. Just where the barrel ends you can see how the top strap tilts downwards then to just where the cylinder end tilt upwards. Like sort of a Z. Mark the rather profound difference in angle between the barrel and cylinder and you get a good idea..

Some careful attention with heat and a small breaker bar later, that i basically just twisted in my hand - least force imaginable really, made short notice of that deal.

As you can imagine the barrel lines up WAY better with the cylinder after that stunt, again. In short..good to go, which feels nice seeing what was involved here.
Front face of the cylinder got trued with the world in general HOWEVER the front pivot/bearing point for the cylinder was another matter.
Worn, to say the least.

That and a rather hefty wear to the entrance cone of the barrel. Well. I turned a bearing for the front bearing point for the cylinder out of bearing bronze and basically reamed that to size.
Then welded up the entrance cone and cut for a forcing cone while at it. End result? Axial as well as radial play of cylinder is now about non existant and the gap between the cyl and barrel at under 1/10mm - where it needs to be in short.

Timing of the piece tho, for a joke. Control arm of the bolt was like a good 5-6mm short (approx 1/4") why it didn´t even TOUCH the cam for it.
..and see this is where it turns... "different".
The hand has its pivot/bearing point on the lower part of the hammer per usual. As on a Colt you have a pin part of the hand that just sticks into the corresponding hole in the hammer.
All good.
The short end of that pin.. is the cam for the bolt  ;) All that is in good working order, the bolt is not. Have started playing around with this and..have come up like maybe 75% correct thus far and have no worries what so ever that i´ll get on mark.
Just a matter of practical geometry to be applied i´d say.

That said this piece.. ATM i´m unsure where to pull the brakes. Ie; giving thought to reblueing the thing, and this due that it is a relatively pitting free gun while at the same time a rather worn piece and then again not.
In short i have a hard time getting my head around the wear it shows as.. It´s like this injury to the top strap made the gun end up on someones table that dry fired the thing to death.

Speaking of which though the nipples were in at least decent shape but DAAAAYYYYYUUUUUM were they ever in there!  {_K
To be blunt i don´t believe i´ve ever had cones on there that tough. Took a crapload of heat and patience to get them outta there in one piece a pop.
Anyways. Out they came and of course i´ve run a 225-32 tap through each hole, and indeed have handed the piece a fresh set. Striking face of the hammer shows wear.. while the nipples that were in there didn´t.
It´s just that the nipples have FOR SURE been in there for a good while.?
You guys tell me!

That said the thing, as you can imagine, is coming up on full circle and i will of course go try the thing before making any final calls.

I´ll get back to you guys on the internals before that though.
Is your barrel length 5.5"? I know of a guy on another board who has one and says the cylinder pin cannot be removed from the revolver without removing the load lever assembly and the frame pivot screw. Has this been your experience?
Yup. Bigger problem is that even with the screw removed, the cylinder pin still cannot be removed. AntiqueSledMan offered a pretty slick solution to that problem here: https://1858remington.com/index.php?topic=11933.msg202716#msg202716
1858 Remington Revolvers / Re: Loading the 1858 Remington sheriffs model.
« Last post by Grumpy gumpy on April 10, 2021, 05:22:24 AM »
If you decide to ream the cylinder, slug the barrel first, you want the cylinder chambers to be a couple of thou under
1858 Remington Revolvers / Re: Loading the 1858 Remington sheriffs model.
« Last post by Gimlet on April 08, 2021, 04:49:52 AM »
Looking at it from another angle, you could get a readily available 11.5mm hand reamer and ream out the cylinder.
Much cheaper than an easy loader.
This would even out the size of each chamber (you'd be surprised how much they can vary) and also give a better engagement with the rifling in the barrel.
.454" is 11.5316 so you will still shave a ring of lead as you will be 0.00124409" under ball size.
I have done this and find it works well, although I now tend to shoot more conicals than ball.
Caps / RWS 1075 Caps
« Last post by AntiqueSledMan on April 08, 2021, 03:22:55 AM »
Hey Guys,

Fleet Farm is selling RWS 1075 Caps on clearance, $4.97/100.


Buy Sell or Trade / Re: WTB, 1858 Remington 8" barrel
« Last post by Captainkirk on April 07, 2021, 07:32:15 PM »
Thanks, Jon. I've decided to cut down the barrel I have and remove the rusty portion.
Remington NMA .44 imported by DGW, manufactured by Army San Paolo AH/1981 (stamped GDG on underside of barrel), but it does not have enough barrel threads protruding from the frame. Also, the load lever sails seem to be correct for a NMA/NMN.


1858 Remington Revolvers / Re: Loading the 1858 Remington sheriffs model.
« Last post by sourdough on April 06, 2021, 02:33:24 PM »
I’ve been away for a long time but it’s good to be back home. I have an 1858 Remington Sheriffs model made by Pietta.

I have a couple of non-related questions for you. Is your barrel length 5.5"? I know of a guy on another board who has one and says the cylinder pin cannot be removed from the revolver without removing the load lever assembly and the frame pivot screw. Has this been your experience?

Thanks in advance!


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