Author Topic: 1860/1851 barrel wedge??  (Read 4185 times)

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Offline Omnivore

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Re: 1860/1851 barrel wedge??
« Reply #15 on: July 08, 2014, 01:43:24 AM »
I'm not sure what any of you are talking about.  First it's a wedge in a Colt, then it's rifle shooting and practicing to use a 1911.  Maybe there is a connection-- once you're accustomed to it, you realize that it was perfectly fine all along and doesn't need alteration.

I have three Colts.  One has the spring in the wedge as it came form the factory, one has a new wedge that I made, which has no spring because I didn't believe it was worth the effort.  The other is a pocket Police which never had a spring in the wedge.  They all work fine.  I don't understand the "problem" you're trying to solve.

If the wedge is popping out completely, then bend the spring so it doesn't.  It should stay in the barrel as you take down the gun, unless you remove the screw or make some major effort in ripping it out.

Using the Colt as a quick-swap cylinder system, if that's your angle, is using it in a way never intended.  I'm going to leave that one alone.

Also, there are two different systems in use for the Colt repros.  One is Pietta's, which is the correct one.  In that system the wedge forces the cylinder arbor hard against the end of the arbor counterbore on the barrel, this determining the cylinder gap, which is repeatable and consistent throughout a shooting session.  In that system, the wedge is in hard, and when it is in hard, your cylinder gap is proper and consistent, assuming the gun was built right.

In the Uberti system, the cylinder arbor cannot touch the end of the counterbore in the barrel without first locking up the cylinder against the barrel, and so you are hand adjusting the cylinder gap every time you assemble the gun, depending on how far you push in the wedge.  This is a dorky (like that word?) way to operate a gun, but it WOULD make for easier swapping of cylinders because the wedge is never tapped in solid.  It's always "floating", and so you can push it out with your thumbs.

When I assemble or disassemble my Pietta, I fold my shirt tail over double, grab my Leatherman tool and keeping it folded, carefully place the shirt cloth over the cylinder and wedge area, using my fingers to protect the front of the cylinder under the cloth, and tap tap with the Leatherman as a mallet, and the wedge is free.  After many years of doing this, there is not ONE little ding in the gun or wedge anywhere from doing this.  Most used guns I see look like a dumb ape took a framing hammer to the wedge, and missed a lot.

With my Uberti's, I fixed them by shimming the arbor counterbore in the barrel, so they work properly, like the Pietta.

For fast cylinder swapping, you use a Remington.

I don't see where a conversion cylinder is relevant here, unless you're talking about an ejector rod housing getting in the way of disassembly, but in that case you're not disassembling it to reload.  If there's no ejector rod or loading gate, then swapping conversion cylinders is no different from swapping out percussion cylinders.  Or am I missing something?  I don't have any conversion cylinders, so I could definitely be missing something.  Maybe what you really want is a loading gate and ejector rod so you can reload Peacemaker (or Open Top) style.
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