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Rogers & Spencer / Re: Freeman Army 44 cal / IT FINALLY ARRIVED!
« Last post by drobs on Today at 06:42:20 AM »
Going back to swapping cylinders...
You have to go further back in history to the Colt Paterson Revolvers carried by the Texas Rangers (pre-CW) to find cylinder swapping. Those pistols came with spare cylinders.

Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Rifling buttons
« Last post by DD4lifeusmc on Today at 06:39:50 AM »
yep what the others said       KISS
Projectiles / Re: Swage-Formed Hollowpoints
« Last post by Dave Shooter on Today at 04:52:25 AM »
Interesting stuff!  I wonder what Speer, Zero, and others do to make their swaged hollowpoints and if those techniques could be economically adapted at the hobbyist level to meet your needs.  Have you contacted Corbin?
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Rifling buttons
« Last post by Racing on Today at 04:20:43 AM »
Yeah well guys see,this is why i´m asking.

Idea i had was to "pull" these small buttons through the bore via threaded rod. Thinking that the difference in mass between the crud and the rifling in itself will guide the button. Mind you,we´re talking real minute amounts of cutting here for each button and the use of a threaded rod would hand the capacity to see what each button does as well as control progress of it rather closely.

But maybe you´re on the money and chemical means of handling this is the better route.? Sure as hell can´t hurt,it´s just that i´ve never before encountered a bore this fouled up and in this manner.
Slag is one thing and was it just slag (which btw might still be a viable idea?) i´d just hammer away with a very small,and long,chisel until content.

Lead fouling coupled with..whatever? Might very well be, but shouldn´t the crud in case be softer then? Again,whatever is in there DOES come off, it just doesn´t do so willingly. REAL hard to describe to me but have you guys ever seen the remains after a whole summer at the bottom of a charcoal grill? Like that,just harder and containing rust. Like there was small dust particles of ferrous material within.

Nastiest solvent i´ve got standing around here ATM is "Gunslick brand super solvent",a jar that is like 30yrs old. As i stuff that down the barrel and work it with a bronze stated it DOES make stuff come out and it looks like really bad pooh with amounts of rust color to it.
What´s more it doesn´t stop. That is,it doesn´t matter how many times i do this. Last night i worked the chemicals in there and set the barrel to the side for like 15mins...sure,it made more of it come off but nowhere NEAR the major part of it.

Could in that case an ultrasonic cleaner be an idea? I´m real anal about keeping the blueing..which was one of the reasons i thought of using mechanical means.

As the old saying goes,to free up a really fouled bore-just keep shooting the gun. Of course not ment as "keep shooting the gun to put 100 rounds through an already fouled more and making matters worse" but more so fire the gun every other day with good cleanings in between,the idea being that the fire in itself will burn residue and the bullets in turn scrape it out of there.
Might also be guys.
Again. I´ve never seen anything like this. Ever.

One thing is for sure and that is that the rather anal work i performed here in front of the TV last night with the needle file has made the rifling at both the muzzle and breech end like a 100 times better. That "rifling looks ok but very weak/shallow" has now turned into "yeah,there´s rifling in there as you´d expect" at both ends. More so the muzzle then breech end though.

Again having the blueing in mind,could it be an idea to try cleaning this stuff out with rust eater? That would in such a scenario leave the barrel black within,but who cares as long as it gets the crud out.?
I know from previous that just using rust spray on the cylinders when loosening the nipples makes the rust come off at what extent though,no idea.

But sure. Nothing to lose from trying chemical means first. Absolutely correct.
Projectiles / Re: Swage-Formed Hollowpoints
« Last post by prof marvel on Today at 02:06:34 AM »
My Good Omnivore -

those little things are quite intriguing... after your efforts they looking more like lead cupcakeswaiting for creamfilling  than roundballs!
I amlooking forward to seeing how they shoot.

prof marvel
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Rifling buttons
« Last post by 45 Dragoon on Today at 12:59:55 AM »
and, I think the possibility of slugging the barrel between cleanings and using that slug as the "button" would certainly loosen whatever needs to come out (the way bore lapping is done). I'd do that as many times as it takes to satisfy you. Also, "clocking" the "slug button" should give each rifling impression a chance to clean out its non-home groove. You may could end up using a harder than pure lead slug as a "finishing slug". As Yolla pointed out about cost, this would definitely be a cheaper,  though low tech,  method .  .  .   one that you can repeat until your satisfied!
  I think a true button would be more problematic and could turn any good rifling into a mess.

Projectiles / Re: Swage-Formed Hollowpoints
« Last post by Omnivore on January 20, 2018, 11:36:20 PM »
Cartridges; thirty grains Olde Eynsford, Swaged Round Ball Hollow Point.  There a lube cookie in there too.  Maybe tomorrow I'll try shooting some water jugs with them.
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Rifling buttons
« Last post by Yolla Bolly Brad on January 20, 2018, 11:31:51 PM »
I concur with the Captain. Before you attempt to move metal around in the barrel you need to get all the crud out of their first. Rifling buttons are very specialized and would be very pricey if you could find someone that would make them for you. Also I've never heard of a rifling button that was designed to follow and refresh existing rifling, but my knowledge on the subject is very limited.
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Rifling buttons
« Last post by Captainkirk on January 20, 2018, 10:49:44 PM »
J, I wonder if you aren't overthinking the problem...
Me, I would soak that barrel in some blistering hot water and Dawn for 15 minutes, then go at it with a bronze brush and see what comes out. It may well be lead residue, which case Hoppes #9 should soften and remove it. Either way, running a rifling button seems like overkill. Just my .02
Projectiles / Re: Swage-Formed Hollowpoints
« Last post by Omnivore on January 20, 2018, 10:47:31 PM »
Oh, here's the top punch;
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