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October 25, 2016, 08:55:02 AM

Hi, just a note to let you know that keeping cylinders loaded for any extended time with the new hotter Remington #10 caps is problematic with fail to fire. You can see the test here:

October 25, 2016, 09:25:59 AM

CCI's have always been better caps than Remington anyway.

October 25, 2016, 10:53:48 AM

My stainless factory stock Uberti Remmy won't set off freshly loaded CCI caps reliably no how no way.

My Pietta 1858 sets anything off no problem.

October 25, 2016, 03:53:30 PM

Apparently, something is degrading the primer compound then.  With a cap installed for a long period of time, the assumption would be that some small amount of oil or lube got into the priming compound and fouled it.  I'm currently finishing up a batch of Remington caps that I've had for a couple years, and they're completely fine.  If they go bad while sitting on a nipple, then it would seem at least strongly suggestive that something on the nipple is getting into the compound.

If you repeat the test, making absolutely certain that there is no possibility of any trace of oil getting into the caps, I'm guessing they'll all fire, no problem.

That is however still a useful experiment, as run, because it would suggest (to my way of thinking anyway) that the Remington caps are more susceptable to oil fouling.

To be clear though; did the caps utterly fail to "pop" or did they pop in an under-powered way with no ignition of the main charge?

I've noticed that, while the Remington caps I have are fitted with a protective disk (green in color), and paper-like), the disks are easily dislodged in handling.  Some of the caps from the same tin, therefore, are loaded without the disk (exposed, brown compound pellet) and others have the green disk in place still, when loaded.  Other caps may also be missing the compound altogether, and I've had to look carefully to tell the difference between the exposed, brown priming pellet and the bare copper with no compound in it at all.

SO; while the Remington caps fit my Tresso nipples to absolute perfection (I bought the Tressos for all my cap guns for that reason) I'm now having second thoughts about the Remington caps for the reasons indicated.  When I fill the 100 cap capacity snail capper, I now have to carefully go through and visually inspect each one that isn't green inside, to make sure it has a priming pellet, and I still miss a few that are empty.  That or they're sometimes losing the pellet while handling the capper.  I have noticed that a little green disk or two will sometimes fall out of the capper while I'm using it...

Either way I look at it then, Remington caps, in spite of the perfect fitment system I've assembled, kinda suck.  My last outing, I used those German caps (1075s? I forget at the moment) and  I did have a few cap problems, but all of those were related to their imperfect fit on my Walker.  My Army revolvers, all equipped with Tressos, handled those caps fine.  I haven't used enough of them to say much else about them, but they might be my next go-to choice.  I have some CCIs to try too.

October 25, 2016, 04:13:08 PM

Hi Omnivore, I assume that the nipples are free from oil in that I use a dry patch to clean each chamber of protective oil and use a high pressure air hose to blow out the nipples.

My assumption is that the "new hotter" Remington caps have an additional substance that is more hygroscopic than their previous composition caps. The compound in the caps that didn't fire is like a stiff goo than a rigid solid. I also have some of the old Remington caps that have the protective film coating. Notice that the CCI caps didn't have a problem and they don't have a vapor barrier, look like the new Remington's, but work after long term storage on the chambers.

If you read the whole thread linked, you will see that this isn't a new problem with the "new hotter" Remington caps.


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